Wednesday, January 30, 2008

gingee fort

GENERAL IMAGE OF GINGEE FORT





History of the fort


The Gingee country then came under the rule of the Hoysalas in the later part of the 13th and in the first half of the 14th century. From the Hoysalas it passed on, by relatively easy efforts, into the hands of the first rulers of Vijayanagar. The Vijayanagar dominion gradually expanded over South India and and divided the administration into three important provinces, which were under the control of Nayaks. These were the Nayaks of Madura, Tanjore and Gingee. Information about the Gingee Nayaks and their rule is very scanty. It is said that the Tubaki Krishnappa Nayaka (1490 to1521) was the founder of the Nayak line of Gingee kings. He seems to have ruled gloriously all over the coast from Nellore down to the Coleroon up to 1521 A.D. Under the Nayaks the Forts were strengthened and the town was greatly enlarged.
The last Nayak of Gingee was forced to surrender to the Bijapur army towards the end of December 1649 A.D. The booty acquired by the Mohammedan rulers of Bijapur was 20 crores of rupees in cash and jewels. Gingee assumed a new and enhanced strategic importance under the Bijapur governors. Bijapur was in possession of the fortress of Gingee till 1677 A.D., when the famous Sivaji, the son of Shaji fell upon it in his momentous Carnatic expedition. The Marathas greatly strengthened and fortified its defences.
The Mughals were then able to capture the fort of Gingee in the Carnatic from Ramaraja the King of the Marathas, early in 1698, after a protracted and weak siege of seven years. Zulfikar Khan, the son of Asad Khan, the Grand Vizir in the court of Aurangazeb, was in command of the siege operation of Gingee and of its governor till he left the Carnatic after about a year from its fall.
After that Aurangazeb, granted a mansab of 2,500 rank and jagir of 12 lakhs to Sawrup Singh, a Bundela Chieftain, along with the killedari of Gingee in 1700 A.D. Raja Sawrup Singh died of old age in 1714 A.D. His arrears of payments due to the faujdari amounted to 70 lakhs, being a defaulter for ten years. The Nawab of Arcot reported this matter to the Badshah (Mughal Emperor) at Delhi. Hearing about the death of his father, Desingh, the son of Raja Sarup Singh, started for Gingee from Bundelkhand, his ancestral home.
On arriving at Gingee, Desingh assumed the government of Gingee after performing the last rites of his father. Aurangazeb had granted a firman to his father and Desingh took formal possession of his father’s jaghir on ground of his hereditary right. Desingh did not receive a warm welcome from the Mughal officers. The Nawab of Arcot, Sadatullah Khan, who attempted to dispossess Desingh, pleaded that the firman was not valid. When Payya Ramakrishna, who was his secretary, informed him of the legal necessity of getting the firman renewed by the new Emperor before assuming the jaghir, Desingh replied that he had got the firman of Aurangazeb and that he need not apply to anybody else.
In fact after regaining the fort from Marathas, Aurangzeb had first appointed Nawab Daud Khan as the deputy subhadar of the Deccan. Nawab Daud Khan removed his headquarters from Gingee to the town of Arcot, as he believed that the place was not healthy. This diminished the importance of Gingee. While shifting his headquarters, Daud Khan appointed Sadatullah Khan as his Diwan and Faujdar in 1708. Sadatullah Khan later became the Nawab of the two Carnatics in 1713, under Nizam-Ul-Mulk. He was the regular and acknowledged Nawab of the Carnatic between the years 1710 and 1732 A.D. After the death of Raja Sawrup Singh he renewed the demand for the arrears of revenue with his son Raja Desingh. This lead to a battle between the two, which unfortunately ended in the death of the young and valiant Rajput, Desingh on 3rd October 1714.
The gallantry displayed by Desingh at the young age of 22, against the powerful Nawab Sadatulla Khan of Arcot in a struggle that was hopeless from the outset (Desingh’s army consisted of only 350 horses and 500 troopers, while the Nawab’s army had 8,000 horsemen and 10,000 sepoys) has made us remember him forever. The ballets are sung in and around Gingee till date about his bravery. However, the fortress of Gingee lost its pre-eminent position and political importance within a few years of the extinction of the Rajput rule.
Subsequently, the two European rival powers in India, the English and the French, got themselves involved in the internal quarrels and fights and the French won for themselves the Gingee fortress on the 11th Sept., 1750, under the initiative of Bussy. They took good care to secure the fort by a strong garrison, which was well supported with artillery and ammunition.
Gingee remained firmly in French possession until after the fall of Pondicherry to Sir Eyre Coote in January 1761. The English commander was Captain Stephen Smith. With the fall of Gingee the French lost their last possession in the Carnatic.
Gingee regained its political importance, for the last time in its fateful history, in 1780 A.D, when Haidar Ali, helped by some able French Officers, invaded Carnatic with a force of 90,000 men. Haidar’s men appeared before the fortress and easily carried it by their assault in November 1780. The English re-conquered it at the close of the second Mysore war from Tippu Sultan in 1799. After that Gingee had been free from the ravages and anarchy of war, but subject to desolation and decay. During the frequent Indo-French Wars, the British resident wanted the Fort and The Fortification to be demolished. Luckily his suggestion was not accepted and the Fort remains for us to experience and relive the history.


  • The Three Hills - The Three Citadels
    As already mentioned the Gingee Fort complex is situated on three hillocks. In fact all the three hills together constitute a fort complex, yet each hill contains a separate and self contained fort. The first hill, where the main fort is located, is called Rajagiri. Originally it was known as Kamalagiri as well as Anandagiri. The fort here is most impregnable. It is about 800 ft. in height. Its summit is cut off from communication and is surrounded by a deep, natural chasm that is about 10 yards wide and 20 yards deep. To gain entry into the citadel one had to cross the chasm with the help of a small wooden draw bridge which was drawn only after getting a signal from the sentries on the parapets that a friend was approaching.
    The naturally strong rock on which the fortress is located is further strengthened by the construction of embrasure walls and gateways along all possible shelves and precipitous edges. It forms the principal fortification. Seven gates have to be traversed before reaching the citadel. This citadel contains many important buildings apart from the living quarters of the royalty, like the stables, granaries, and meeting halls for the public, temples, mosques, shrines and pavilions jostling each other.
    The lower fort consists of the following important monuments:
    Vellore Gate
    Pondicherry Gate - probably improved by the French during their occupation (1751-1761).
    The Prison - on top of Pondicherry Gate.
    Royal Battery - probably erected by the French.
    Venkataramanaswami Temple - probably built during the Vijay Nagar period. - The original tall, graceful monolithic pillars from the temple are said to have been carried away to Pondicherry by the French and to have been fixed around the place de la Republique, near the old pier.
    Pattabhi Ramaswami Temple - architecturally very important.
    Sadatulla Khan’s mosque, contributed by the Nawab of Arcot.
    Chettikulam and Chakrakulam tanks.
    Platform where Raja Desingh’s (the hero of Gingee who fought gloriously with the Nawab of Arcot and died on the battle field). His body is to have been cremated by the order of the Nawab with full honours and in orthodox Hindu style, while his young Rajput wife committed sati.
    A large stone-image of Hanuman.
    Prisoner’s well where the prisoners condemned to death were thrown and left to die of starvation.
    The inner fort consists of the following important buildings:
    Kalyana Mahal, perhaps the living quarters of the queens.
    The Royal Stables.
    The Royal palace that is in ruin. It has two large slabs of polished stones that had served as bathing platforms for Raja Desingh and his Rani.
    Gymnasium
    Anaikulam tank
    Granaries
    Magazine
    Shrine of Venugopalaswami, where the sculpture of Lord Krishna playing on his flute is accompanied by two female figures. They are supposed to be his two wives, Rukmani and Satyabhama. This is the best piece of sculpture in the place.It is amazing to see that even the top of the fort is well provided with water supply and several wells, sumps and storage tanks are located in the fort complex at various levels. One also sees a site museum at the entrance of the fort set up by the Archeological Survey of India containing sculptures pertaining to various periods and many dynasties that ruled Gingee. There are also guns and cannon balls made of stone, strewn about the fort.



Origin name of the fort


The actual name of Gingee is Sengiri meaning perhaps the Red Hill in Tamil that has got corrupted into Gingee. Some say that the name Sengiri has originated from 'Sanjeevi' the hill mentioned in Ramayana from where Hanuman gets the life saving herb, the Sanjeevini Booti for Lakshamana when he is lying unconscious during the war between Rama and Ravana. The Sanjeevi herb is the panacea of Indian mythology. It has been explained as the combination of two roots, Sam (pleasure) and Ji (life). The name has also been traced to Singavaram the neighbouring Vaishnavite shrine, whose lord is supposed to be the guardian deity of the place.
The local tradition has another explanation to offer. The legend runs that seven virgin sisters once lived here and one of them was known as Senjiamman. Their modesty was threatened with the possibility of violation of their chastity. Even though a valiant man named Thadikara Virappan rescued them from danger, they could not survive the insult and so committed suicide. Their spirits are even now believed to be haunting the place and considered the genii loci. Each of the sisters has got her own little shrine still existing and attracts votaries from the neighbourhood. It is very probable that Senjiamman who is worshipped on top of one of the hills gave her name to the particular hill and this afterwards came to be the common designation of the whole circle of hills and villages below.
Another of the sisters, Kamalakanniamman, has a shrine dedicated to her at the base of Rajgiri, which, on certain days in the year attracts a great number of worshippers. This hill was originally known after the goddess as Kamalagiri. Gingee also had an earlier name known as Krishnapura. This name was possibly given to it by its first ruling dynasty that were of shepherd class and whose tutelary deity was Lord Krishna. However, it is possible that it might have received the name from its powerful ruler, Krishnappa Nayak.
The Bijapur Nawabs who held the fort from about 1660-77 A.D. called it Badshabad, while the Marathas who succeeded them called it Chandry or Chindy. The Mughals, on their capture of the fort in 1698 A.D. named it Nasrat Gaddah in honour of Nawab Zulfiquar Khan Nasrat Jang, the commander-in-chief of the besieging army. Later, the English and the French called it Gingee or Jinji. The early Madras records of the English give the spelling Chingee or Chengey. Whatever might be the name by which it might have been known in different epochs, it has retained the name Gingee.
The chief source for the first two hundred years of the history of the place is the "Complete History of the Carnatic Kings" among the Mackenzie manuscripts. One Narayan, who claimed to be a descendant of the Ananda Kon Clan of Gingee, compiled it, after a consultation with numerous authorities, both Hindu and Muhammadan. According to Narayan, Gingee became a fortified place only about 1200 A.D. Ananda Kon of the shepherd community, accidentally found a treasure in one of the cavities of the Western hill while grazing his sheep. Making himself the head of a small band of warriors, he defeated the petty rulers of the neighbouring villages and built a small fortress on Kamalagiri which he renamed Anandagiri after himself.
The Kon dynasty ruled Gingee from 1190 to 1330 A.D. This shepherd race was then superseded by the chief of a neighbouring place called Kobilingan, who belonged to the kurumba caste and ascended the throne of Gingee. He was a feudatory of the powerful Cholas. This way Gingee came into the hands of various ruling dynasties of South India starting from the Cholas.


Kalyana Mahal
Inside the fort there is a Kalyana Mahal, which has a pyramid like sturcture at the top, built in Indo-Islamic style. It is very beautiful and it attracts the hearts of the visitiors. The mahal is so wonderful in its structures and has rooms for women's stay, a pond of three square meter, built with curved verandahs, with windows, stair cases on either side of each floor. Moreover terracotta pipes are fixed on the inner wall of the mahal for water to come in.



Elephant tank
To the South of Kalyana Mandapam the Elephant tank is situated. Even now it is called the Elephant tank since it is so big that it can accommodate elephants.
Steps are provided in the Southwest corner of the tank so that elephants could climb down and get out easily, say historians. The tank measures 58 meters long, 40 meters wide and 15 meters deep. On the four sides of the tank, a cloister mandapa with 134 stone pillars has been constructed.
Some historians hold the view that this tank would have been used as a swimming pool by kings, royal family, relatives of kings and generals.



Magazine
To the west of the gymnasium pond there is square shaped stage. There is a deep pit at the central part of the stage and built a square shaped wall surrounding the central part. This was used for storing the explosives.



Gymnasium
This is a granite building in wagon shape roof to the West of the elephant tank. This place was used to do physical exercise. This place, in those times was used to secretly train sepoys and to preserve the war weapons.



Venugopala Swami Temple
It is situated to the West of the granary. The idols seen here are in broken condition. The southern gateway of the temple has doors, made of wood. This gateway is called the 'Gateway of Thiruchirapalli'. This opens to the southern region of the country.



Places at Rajagiri Fort



Pond and Mandapa
A pond is on the left side of the path in front of Kamalakanni amman temple) with natural steps. It is now ruined. There is a mandapam made of granite on the bank of this pond. In olden days Lord Ranganatha is taken in a procession from Singapuram village, brought here, decorated, put on a float for the circumbulation of the pond. Hence the name Ranganathar mandapam.


Kamalakanni Amman temple
Next to the pond and mandapa Kamalakanni Amman (Durga) temple is located. Even now this deity is worshipped. In front of the temple, there is a slaughter Dais of 1.30 mtrs. wideth. During festival time, a buffalo is slaughtered on this dais. There is a standing Vishnu picture of multi colors of Nayaka age (17th Century A.D.) on a vertical rock at the back of the temple. Vishnu has sangu and chakara in his hands. There is a female deity on the right of Vishnu with a flower in her left hand in katharimuka pose.
Bhudevi who is on the lfet of Thirumal has neelothpala flower in her right hand. Bhudevis is tied breasts are covered are covered with kuccha pantha. The base of the three figures is extrapolated to form like blades of a rising sun. Vishnu has been garlanded. At the tip, it has been painted in the form of Thazhambu flower.
This is similar to that of Leepakshi paintings in Andhra pradesh. All the three figures are below a decorated shamiana. Above this, there is a baby picture which worships Vishnu. In a corner, there are hands of devas showering flowers. The size of this picture is 5' X 5' to the left, there is a dancing figure 1 1/2 feet length. The face and the left hand are destroyed. Only two right hands are left.
Yet another figure is present on the right side of Vishnu, which is fully ruined. The face seems to be of Narasimha. The legs are in the yoga posture. It is decorated above the figure of Narasimha.



Ranganathar temple
It is situated on 900 feet high hill. Art and architecture of this temple belong to the Nayak period. This temple is facing in the North East corner of the citadel and is in typical Vijayanagar style of architecture. The mukha mandapa of the temple supported by four pillars is approached by a flight of steps in the southern side. The main shrine dedicated to Lord Ranganathar is facing East.


Bell tower / Watch tower
It is situated opposite to Ranganathar temple. It is made of granite. The base is of square shape and the upper part is of circular shape. At the top of the tower a big bronze bell is hooked, the sound of which is heard even in distant villages. The French took the bell from here to Pondicherry.



Cannon
To the south of the bell tower, there is small stone mandapam over which a cannon of 12 feet is kept. No. 930 , No 616 at the center, No. 7560 at the lower and the Tamil words "CHOTTEJ" are written on the cannon.




Draw-Bridge
We can enter vertical Rajagiri fort through this draw-bridge only. This bridge is made of wood. When there is a war, this bridge is drawn in so that enemies can't enter inside. It is 6 feet wide and 20 feet in length. Now it is a bridge fixed permanently for visitors use to enter.



Places around the Rajagiri Fort



The Architecture of Jumma Mosque
In 17th Century A.D. Sad-ad-ullah khan ruled Gingee during his rule he built a mosque near the pathway to Chakkarai Kulam, Chettikulam and Sri Anjaneya temple.
The entrance of Sd-ad-ullah khan's Jumma mosque was built with lime mortar and with arch and ornamental decorations. Even though the entrance is with measures of 2.50 meter. length, 2.10 meter. breath and 4 meter. height, it is in ruined condition.
The next one is rectangular shaped granite stage with measures of 12.25 meter. length, 9.65 meter breadth and 1 meter height on this stage, a mosque (worship place) facing towards east, has been constructed with mortar and bricks in the west side. It's measures are 12.25 meter. length 9.65 meter. height. But this mosque is in destructive condition.
On the Opposite side to this mosque, there is one burial ground/cemetery where dead bodies were buried. This cemetery architectures are preserved from further damages by the Department of Archaeology safely.




Temple of Seven Maidens
When we enter through the southern gateway, we can see the temple of Seven Maidens. This temple is buildup of bricks. These are in dilapidated, condition. Historians say that people worshipped Seven Maiden Goddesses in this temple and Gingee got its name from the eldest Maiden named Gingee Amman.



The funeral place of Desing Raja
Desing Raja's funeral place is in the form of a stage constructed with granite. It is located near the northern steps of the Chetty pond. It is said that is wife committed sati by falling into the funeral pyre of her husband.



Chakkarai Kulam (Tank)
Chakkarai kulam pond is situated on the right side of the path to Hanuman temple. It has its own physical features. It is planned and built in low lying areas in such a way that water from surround areas is being collected in the pond during monsoons.



Anjaneya Temple Chakkaraikulam and Chettykulam are situated on the Southside of Gingee fort. At the end of these ponds, there is an Anjaneya on the rock with dimensions of 2 meter breadth and 2.30 meter height. Later a temple was created with few mandapam around this Anjaneya sculpture. In front of the temple only stone pillars are found.



Prisoners' well
To the west of the Hanuman temple there is a Prisoners' well on a large rock. It is a natural rock over they built a circular wall of 38 meters in circumference, 12 meters in inner circumference and 4 meters in depth with bricks. The interior part looks spacious and deep and it is built in such a way that no one can climb and look out. In those days they pushed the condemned prisoners into the well and so they died of thirst and hunger.




Chetty kulam (Tank)
Chetty kulam pond is located on the left side of Hanuman Temple. This pond was built very beautifully during Maratha's rule by Rama chetty at the end of the 18th century with granites on northern and eastern sides. On the eastern side there is channel for water to flow out. The pond get its name from its builder Rama Chetty.



Venkataramana Temple
Venkataramana temple is situated near the "Gateway of Pondicherry" in the South, faces East with high gopura. This temple was built by Muthialu Nayaka in 1540 A.D. - 1550 A.D. This temple is the place of worship till date. In this temple there are also deities of Devi, Aandaal and Narasima. There are two prakaras, Kalyana Mandapa,Urchava Mandapa and Yaga Sala Mandapa with pillars. They are in ruin condition now and also no pooja is performed at present.



Gate way of Pondicherry
When we move across the pathway in the East, we can see the gate with mandapa facing Pondicherry. So this gateway got its name as "Gateway of Pondicherry" In front of Pondicherry Gate entrance at Eastern side (North facing gate entrance of top portion The Persian inscription is found and its translate in English) is given below.
"'The Exalted Khan Saddatulah Khan, upon whom be multiplied the blessing of Haider, Captured the fort of Gingee by the favors of incomparable almighty Ghulam Ali discovered date for it. Islam Expelled infidelity 1125 HIJRI (1712 A.D. - 1713 A.D.)"



Sad-Ullah Khan Mosque
On the left side of the first entrance of Rajagiri fort there is a path which faces East. Here, Sad-Ullah Khan's mosque is located. The Archaeological Survey of India conserves and preserves the mosque. This mosque is the place worship to Muslims during their rule. This mosque was built between 1717 and 1715 A.D.



Gateway of Vellore
The Gate is situated in the North and the Mandapa faces Vellore. So it is named as "Gateway of Vellore"


Temples of Lord shiva and Amman Shrine : -
The temple of Lord Shiva is situated here. In the temple, there is a Shiva Lingam in the sanctum sanctorum. In addition to this, there is a Goddess temple in the East where the front mandapam









1 comment:

Unknown said...

hi
this is Dr.Vijay Tubaki,its realy sounds astonishing.Even my ancestral story is exactly the same.i am from kuruba commnity paced at karnataka..
we may have to do some research..since i am told that we are from royal family,had kindom more of cannons than soldiers.we lost with muguls...
send me our details at tubakivijay@rediffmail.com